figure drawings

Figure Drawing


Artistic Costume Designing

by Louis Lipson

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Artistic Costume Designing Artistic Costume Designing Artistic Costume Designing Artistic Costume Designing

Artistic Costume Designing
ABOUT THIS BOOK

Simple clear illustrations characterize this very complete introduction to costume and fashion designing by the founder and Director of Lipson's School of Costume Designing in Los Angeles. The book is designed as a home study book with exercises to work on.

The text is extensive with many practical hints and conveys a thorough understanding of techniques and materials available to the designer.

It begins with lessons in drawing the figure for fashion and costume illustration, then proceeds through types of wardrobe, appropriate wardrobe for different women, materials and accessories and includes hints both on the best use of materials as well as how to illustrate designs and materials convincingly. Originally published in 1940 and revised in 1941.

FROM THE INTRODUCTION

Many years in this profession, here and abroad, have made me feel it essential, in the year of 1940, not to overlook those people of our country who do not have the opportunity to-come to our school.

Looking forward to the future, and having experience from the past, I decided that the time was ripe to give an opportunity to those who have the desire and ambition to become fashion illustrators, stylists, or cosˇ tume designers.

This book is compiled for that purpose to to fulfill the desires of those who are unable to come to school or cannot afford to spend two or three years, or even one year, paying tuition. Also, some have to work for a living, and have no time to spend in travelling many miles to and from school in order to carry out their plans.

The Home Study has been prepared from years of experience, and is for the student who wishes to study in his leisure time. We must realize how essential a book for Home Study is to those who are interested in this work and yet are unable to attend a school to gain the knowledge they would have. Our book will mean the materialization of their education and independence for the future.

The Home Study can be of service in leading many successful men and women, as well as helping others to decide what they would like best to do in the field of Costume Designing.

Certain people have a gift for originality, but do not know how to use their ideas by putting them on paper. To have ideas and not be able to materialize them can be likened to a rushing mountain stream; potentialities unharnessed, and therefore of no practical use. Many successful people, doing the work they love, have arrived at that success by developing their latent talents This book gives each and every boy and girl, man and woman the opportunity to discover and develop hidden potential talent.

I should like to quote the familiar expression, "Practice makes perfect." This applies to the student studying at home in the development of his talent. If you love it, you will study all the harder then the genius will be brought out. As I generally say, "It is 95% perspiration and 5% inspiration."

My idea is to help the one who wants to be helped. That is why the Lipson's Home Study book expects to find a place in your home. If you try and make use of it by studying, the result will be that you will find yourself and be able to succeed in that which you love to do. The Lipson's Home Study claims that you will make a success designing, styling, illustrating, buying, or in one of the many other-interesting fields in this profession.

May I hope that this will be the beginning of YOUR success.

LOUIS LIPSON
Founder and Director
Lipson's School of
Costume Designing
Los Angeles, California

Some additional illustrations from the ebook and some examples from another book by Louis Lipson are at my blog post: Artistic Costume Designing - Figure Drawing for Fashion Design

TABLE OF CONTENTS
Introduction
Your Personality Is It Pleasing?
You Can Build a Charming Personality
Your Posture How Is It?
Accept Yourself
The Feminine Figure Today
The Tiny Woman
The Small or Medium Sized Woman
The Tail Woman
Know Yourself Accept Yourself
LESSON I
Designing
Front View Figure and Head
Figure Analysis
Head Analysis
Problem
LESSON II
Side and Three-Quarter View Figures and Head
Proportions of a Side View Head
Proportions of a ThreeˇQuarter View Head
Head Detail Conclusions
Problem
LESSON III
Back. View Figures, Hands, Feet and Legs
Problem
LESSON IV
Principles of Line
Poses
Color Harmony
Problem
LESSON V
Principles of Sportswear
Pen and Ink Sketching
Problem
LESSON VI
Head Variations and Millinery Types
Hats
Problem
LESSON VII
Mannish
Vivacious
Unassuming
Timid
Serious Minded
Optional
Capable
Brush and Ink
Problem
LESSON VIII
Interpretations of Materials
Drapery and Folds
Problem
LESSON IX
Seasonal Tying in With Current Events
Tracing or Transferring Sketches
Problem
LESSON X
Accessories
Bags, Purses
Shoes
Gloves
Problem
LESSON XI
Lingerie
Problem
LESSON XII
Advanced Designing
Wedding Costumes
Problem


LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
LESSON I
Figure Analysis
Figure
Figure
Figure
Figure
Figure
Head Analysis
Head
Head
LESSON II
Figure
Figure
Figure -
Figure
Figure
Eyes, Noses, Mouths and Ears
Head
Head
Head
Head
Side View Head
Side View Bead
Side View Head
LESSON III
Figure
Figure
Figure
Hands
Feet
Legs and Feet
LESSONS IV
Round (Curved) Lines
Vertical Lines
Horizontal Lines
Diagonal Lines
LESSON V
Riding Habit
Golf Dress
LESSON VI
Head Types
Hats
LESSON VII
Timid Type
LESSON VIII
Inverted Pleat and Side Pleat
Quilted Jacket and Box Pleats
Gored Skirt and Gathered Skirt
Starched Pleated Chiffon and Taffeta
Lace and Net
Metallic Leather, Chiffon and Rhinestone Slide Buckle
LESSON IX
Ski Suit
LESSON X
Slippers
Gloves
Bags, Purses
LESSON XI
Nightgown
Pajamas
Lingerie


The Complete Index
Accessories, 82, 93; display of, 82 Rccept yourself, 3, 4, 8 Bags, 82, 84, 85
Beaded Ornament, 73
Brush and ink, 65, 66
Bust, 8
Charm, 1, 2
Chiffon, 72, 73, 75
Color harmony, 49; complements, 49; hue, 49; monochrome, 52; primary, 49; secondary, 49; shade, 49; tertiary, 49; tint, 49; tone., 49; value, 52
Colors for types, 93; capable, 65; emotional, 64 mannish, 62; serious minded, 64; timid, 64; unassuming, 62; vivacious, 62 what colors express, 52
Color wash: application, 66
Common seuee, 4
Convertible wardrobe, 93
Courage, 4
Cruise wardrobe, 80
Designing, II; advanced designing, 92 Drapery, 76
Ear, 21, 29, 38
Embroidery black, 73,white, 76
Evening gowns, 48, 80
Eyes, 29, 37, 38
Faces.: oval, 58, 59; round, 58, 59; square, 58, 59; triangle, 58, 59; see also Heads
Feet, 43, 44, 45, 54; see also Legs and Slippers
Figures: analysis of, 10, U, 12, 21; back view, 39, 40, 41, 45; front view, 10, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17; three quarter view, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28; feminine figure today, 4: general outline, 5; tall woman, 7, 8; tiny woman, 6; small or medium sized woman, 6, 7
Folds, 71, 72, 76
Fringe, 73
Georgette: see Chiffon
Gloves, 83, 84
Golf dress, 56
Gray wash: application of, 65
Hair, 37
Hands, 42, 45, 54, 84
Hats, 58, 60
Heads: analysis of, 18, 21; details, 37, 38; front view proportions, 18, 19, 20, 21; side view proportions, 27, 34, 35, 36; three quarter view proportions, 30, 31, 32, 33, 37; van 73; white, 76 53, 63, 72, 74, 75, variations, 58 ; see also Faces
Herringbone, 67
Hips, 9
Imagination, 3
Knitted wear, 67
Lace, 73, 74
Leather, 32, see also Metallic leather
Legs, 44, 45
Line: curved, 47, 48, 76; diagonal, 47, 53; horizontal, 47, 51; points, 47; principles of, 47; relation to mood and character, 47; straight, 47, 76; vertical, 47, 50
Lingerie, 87, 88, 89, 90; bridal lingerie, 91
Materials: interpretation of, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76; used in sketching, 11; thick, 67; wash, 73
Metal cloth, 6
Metallic leather, 75
Moire: see Taffeta
Mouth, 29, 38
Net, 73, 74
Nightgown, 87, 88
Nose, 21, 29, 38
Organdie, 73
Pajamas, 89
Panties, 87, 90
Pen and ink sketching, 57
Personality: build a charming personality, 1, 2; your personality, 1
Personality types: capable, 65; emotional, 64; mannish, 62; serious minded, 64; timid, 62, 63, 64; unassuming, 62; vivacious, 62
Pleats: box, 70; chiffon, 72; inverted, 69; side, 69
Poses, 49, 87
Posture, 2, 3
Problems: lesson I, 22; lesson II, 38; lesson III, 45, 46; lesson IV, 52; lesson V, 57; lesson VI, 61; lesson VII, 66; lesson VIII, 76, 77; lesson IX, 80; lesson X, 84, 86; lesson XI, 87, 91; lesson XII, 93
Proportion, 5
Purses: see Bags
Quilted jacket, 70
Riding habit, 55
Rhinestone buckle, 75
Satin, 68
Sequins, 73
Serge, 67
Shoes, 82, 84, 86
Shoulders, 6, 8, 27
Silk, 68, 76; printed silk, 68; silk jersey, 68
Size, 4, 5
Sketching methods, U, 27
Ski suit, 79, 80
Skirts, 54; gathered, 71; gored, 71; pleated, 69, 70; lace, 74; net, 74; starched chiffon, 72; taffeta, 72
Slips, 87
Slippers, 81; see also Shoes
Sportswear, 54, 80
Style trends, 78; seasonal, 78
Taffeta, 68, 72, 76
Textiles and fabrics, 67
Tracing, 78
Transferring sketches, 78
Traveling wardrobe, 80, 93
Tuile: see Net
Tweeds, 68
Velour, 67
Velvet, 67
Voile: see Chiffon
Waist, 6, 8, 9
Wash materials, 73
Wedding costumes: formal, 92; garden, informal, 92; lingerie for bride, 91
Weight, 5
Woolen plaids, 68